Lucky Number - Good Eats : The Classic Vegas Buffet

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Good Eats: The Classic Vegas Buffet
By Salme Ruiz

The Las Vegas buffet began in the early 1940s at the original El Rancho Vegas. Owner Beldon Katleman decided to keep his hungry patrons in-house with his "Midnight Chuck Wagon Buffet - All you can eat for a Dollar". Others quickly copied his elaborate cafeteria. The result is a world-famous cliche, an anachronism from Vegas' early mob years. No longer the cheap eats it once was, the Vegas buffet ranges from $10 for lunch to $30 for dinner. Along with the increase in price, and the increase in competition, is the logical increase in quality.

The entertainment factor has redefined Vegas as more than merely a gambling spot; hotel conglomerates are willing to shell out serious cash to bring top names to the food market. As a result, the Vegas buffet is diminishing. Most buffets offer little more than long lines and serve only passable fare. For a really good meal, many tourists believe they must head for formal restaurants, such as Wolfgang Pucks' or the Palm.

Visiting the Strip without ever seeing the ubiquitous buffet is a mistake. Almost every major (and most minor) hotel places a buffet in one corner, usually identified by the long line of salivating customers. Just being in the line is an experience in itself. Witness the variety of individuals, most humbly dressed, some in costume on break from their shift, a few fresh from their nuptials in full wedding regalia. Prepare to wait no matter which buffet you choose, unless of course you gamble enough to earn a spot on the VIP line.

Finding a buffet is easy. Locating one worth the trouble is slightly more challenging.

Excalibur's Lancelot'A Pasta is no more, but has been replaced with an equally avoidable renaissance faire at their Round Table Buffet. The Palatium Buffet at Caesar's is less preferable than a full lunch at The Palm restaurant, which is nearer to the gambling and of comparable price. The Buffet at Monte Carlo ($10 to $20) is a perennial favorite, though the hotel is geared toward the retiree-crowd, and discourages families with small children. The old-time favorite - and least-expensive - Buffet at the Golden Nugget is a real mother lode, topping out at $10.95 per person for dinner, plus tax.

For a different pace, try Luxor's Pharaoh's Pheast Buffet ($9 to $20), found in a tomb-like underground setting, complete with hieroglyphics and Egyptian statuary. Mandalay Bay's Bayside Buffet crosses the bar by offering spectacular views of its 11-acre tropical lagoon, along with a comparable hike in price ($11 to $25).

No matter which buffet you choose, the routine is the same. Pay on the way in and follow the hostess to your seat, give her your drink order (liquor is extra), and head for the food kiosks. Just remember where you sat. Seriously. Wander, mill, and take small portions; you will get full very quickly. Choose from a variety of salads, soups, or seafood appetizers to start. Move to the heated meals, which include beef, chicken, pork, fish, pasta, and veggie choices. Don't load up on shrimp and lox right off - be sure to save room for the exquisite desserts.

If you want a relaxing atmosphere with fabulous food, don't forget Paris. For my money the best food on the Strip, Paris' Le Village Buffet includes dishes from five provinces. The buffet, which serves up three meals a day to thousands of visitors, is set in a faux Parisian street complete with cobblestones, storefronts that mask additional tables, a sky-mural ceiling, and "outdoor" sidewalk seating. Sample food from each French province, and leave room for dessert! Choose from the pre-cut selection of tarts, cheesecakes, and sorbets, or enjoy a custom-made crepe.

Whatever buffet you visit, be sure to come hungry, and don't plan to eat for the rest of the day!

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